Master block pattern development for fit evaluation based on adult female anthropometric data and body shapes using Telestia-AB patternmaking system

Authors

  • Norsaadah Zakaria Faculty of Innovation & Technology, The Design School, Taylor’s University, Malaysia
  • Rosita Mohd Tajuddin Faculty of Art and Design, Universiti Teknologi Mara (UiTM), Malaysia

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.31580/ojst.v5i1.2604

Keywords:

Anthropometric Data, Upper and Lower Body Measurements Tables, Body Shape Analysis and Size Cluster

Abstract

Developing well-fit garments is relevant in the garment industry, especially to achieve the quality of corporate uniform wear. A garment that looks good must also fit the body. The first process for garment fitting is to develop the body pattern that acts as the form for body shape before translating it to the desired garment design. Thus, the focus of this study is to construct a good master block pattern that fit the body well. Size, shape, and proportions are considered factors that contribute to a well-fitted garment. This study involves anthropometric study, master block development, pattern assembly onto fabric, basic garment constructions, and fitting analytics. The fit analytics are a relevant part of a fit evaluation to model the best method to develop body patterns and wear analysis for each individual for better-fit garment consumption. The conclusion showed that using sophisticated Telestia-AB tools and Telestia body key dimensions expedites the process of body block pattern for fit evaluation. The wear trial process is to determine how the bodice block fits before transforming it into the design pattern for corporate wear. This research concludes that developing a proper body pattern based on the anthropometric data is crucial as the fit of the garment is achievable with the right pattern-making system and skillset.

Author Biographies

  • Norsaadah Zakaria, Faculty of Innovation & Technology, The Design School, Taylor’s University, Malaysia

    The Design School, Taylor’s University, Malaysia

  • Rosita Mohd Tajuddin, Faculty of Art and Design, Universiti Teknologi Mara (UiTM), Malaysia

    Universiti Teknologi Mara (UiTM), Malaysia

References

Balach, M., Lesiakowska-Jablonska, M., & Frydrych, I. Anthropometry and Size Groups in the Clothing Industry. Autex Research Journal. 2020;20(1):56–62. https://doi.org/10.2478/aut-2019-0001

Zakaria N, Gupta D. Apparel sizing: existing sizing systems and the development of new sizing systems. InAnthropometry, apparel sizing and design 2014 Jan 1 (pp. 3-33). Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1533/9780857096890.1.3.

Zakaria N, Gupta D, editors. Anthropometry, apparel sizing and design. Woodhead Publishing; 2019 Oct 5. https://doi.org/10.1016/C2017-0-01616-6

Ramly NM, Shaari N. The Effectiveness of Apparel Pattern Drafting in Manual System for Tvet Fashion Program. PalArch's Journal of Archaeology of Egypt/Egyptology. 2020 Nov 2;17(9):3062-70.

Tama D, Öndoğan Z. Fitting evaluation of pattern making systems according to female body shapes. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe. 2014.

Tanjibul, M., Sajib, H., Islam, A., Eanamul, M., & Nizam, H. Development of Basic Pattern Blocks for Men’s Wear Applying 3D Body Scanning Technology. 2018. www.symbiosisonline.orgwww.symbiosisonlinepublishing.com

Zhu, Y., & Peng, Y. Fit Evaluation during Repetition Interaction in Garment Pattern Design. Mathematical Problems in Engineering, 2019. https://doi.org/10.1155/2019/3901582

Scott, E., Gill,S., & McDonald, C. Novel Methods to Drive Pattern Engineering through and for Enhanced Use of 3D Technologies. 2019:211–221. https://doi.org/10.15221/19.211

Hackett, L. J., & Rall, D. N. The size of the problem with the problem of sizing: How clothing measurement systems have misrepresented women’s bodies, from the 1920s to today. Clothing Cultures. 2018:5(2). https://doi.org/10.1386/cc.5.2.263_1

Yin, L., & Annett-Hitchcock, K. Comparison of body measurements between Chinese and U.S. females. The Journal of The Textile Institute. 2019:110(12);1716–1724. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2019.1617531

Petrak, S., & Mahnič Naglic, M. Dynamic Anthropometry – Defining Protocols for Automatic Body Measurement. TEKSTILEC. 2017:60(4);254–262. https://doi.org/10.14502/Tekstilec2017.60.254-262

Zakaria, N., Taib, J. S. Mohd. N., Tan, Y. Y., & Wah, Y. B. Using data mining technique to explore anthropometric data towards the development of sizing system. Proceedings - International Symposium on Information Technology 2008, ITSim. 2008:2. https://doi.org/10.1109/ITSIM.2008.4631721

Ashdown, S., & Loker, S. Mass-customized Target Market Sizing: Extending the Sizing Paradigm for Improved Apparel Fit. Fashion Practice. 2010:2(2);147–173. https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387396

Kim, H., & Damhorst, M. L. The Relationship of Body-Related Self-Discrepancy to Body Dissatisfaction, Apparel Involvement, Concerns with Fit and Size of Garments, and Purchase Intentions in Online Apparel Shopping. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 2010:28(4);239–254. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X10379266

Yu, M., & Kim, D. E. Body shape classification of Korean middle-aged women using 3D anthropometry. Fashion and Textiles. 2020:7(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-020-00223-8

Kasambala J, Kempen E, Pandarum R. Female consumers' perceptions of garment fit, personal values and emotions considering their body shapes. The Retail and Marketing Review. 2014 Jan 1;10(1):95-108.

Kausher, H., & Srivastava, S. A review on sizing systems for readymade garments in India and different types of body shapes of females. International Journal of Home Science. 2016:2(3);136–138.

Yim Lee, J., Istook, C. L., Ja Nam, Y., & Mi Park, S. Comparison of body shape between USA and Korean women. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology. 2007:19(5);374–391. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556220710819555

Vuruskan A. & Bulgun E. identification of body shapes of female body shapes based on numerical evaluation. International Journal of Cloth Science and Technology. 2010:23(1);46–60.

Hong, Y., Bruniaux, P., Zeng, X., Liu, K., Curteza, A., & Chen, Y. Visual-Simulation-Based Personalized Garment Block Design Method for Physically Disabled People with Scoliosis (PDPS). Autex Research Journal. 2018:18(1). https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2017-0001

Sakata Y, Kim K, Takatera M. Development of a measuring garment for a woman’s upper body shape. In International Symposium on Affective Science and Engineering ISASE2021 2021 (pp. 1-2). Japan Society of Kansei Engineering. https://doi.org/10.5057/isase.2021-c000016

Guo S, Istook CL. Evaluation of 2D CAD Technology for Garments Customized for Body Shape. Fashion Practice. 2021 Sep 30:1-27. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2021.1987647

Santesteban, I., Otaduy, M. A., & Casas, D. Learning-Based Animation of Clothing for Virtual Try-On. Computer Graphics Forum. 2019:38(2). https://doi.org/10.1111/cgf.13643

Liu, K., Wu, H., Zhu, C., Wang, J., Zeng, X., Tao, X., & Bruniaux, P. An evaluation of garment fit to improve customer body fit of fashion design clothing. International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology. 2022. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00170-022-08965-z

Shin, E., & Lorenz, F. Exploring consumers’ fit perceptions and satisfaction with apparel fit in general. Master’s thesis. Iowa State University, USA. 2013.

Shin, E., Niehm, L., Russell, D., & Laczniak, R. The role of fit information in consumer online reviews and individual characteristics in consumer’s online purchase decisions. Doctoral dissertation, Iowa State University, USA. 2016.

Jiang B, Zhang J, Hong Y, Luo J, Liu L, Bao H. Bcnet: Learning body and cloth shape from a single image. In Computer Vision–ECCV 2020: 16th European Conference, Glasgow, UK, August 23–28, 2020, Proceedings, Part XX 16 2020 (pp. 18-35). Springer International Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-58565-5_2

Jiang, L., Ye, J., Sun, L., & Li, J. Transferring and fitting fixed-sized garments onto bodies of various dimensions and postures. CAD Computer Aided Design. 2019:106. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cad.2018.08.002

Lin, Y. L., & Wang, M. J. J. The development of a clothing fit evaluation system under virtual environment. Multimedia Tools and Applications. 2016:75(13). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11042-015-2681-7

Scott, E. & Sayem, A. S. M. Landmarking and Measuring for Critical Body Shape Analysis Targeting Garment Fit. 2018:222–235. https://doi.org/10.15221/18.222

Downloads

Published

2023-03-26